Oh I found my corner…. (Fire Proofing)

Home Forums DIYs The MacGyver Files Oh I found my corner…. (Fire Proofing)

This topic contains 7 replies, has 8 voices, and was last updated by  Littlesister 7 months, 3 weeks ago.

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  • #1240

    Dan Wolfe
    Participant

    So here I am checking out the forum to see how it is doing compared to the FB group.

    Wanting so much for the old school forum to do better than anything on social media, I look around for a corner in here for me to fit it in…

    … and here it is.

    So to start with, here’s some preps you can make at home, from my archives…

    Fire can be put out by removing one of three things. Either the fuel the fire is using to spread, Oxygen it is using for combustion, or heat it uses to maintain the reaction. Mason Sand mixed with Sodium Bicarbonate (ratio 3:1) will remove oxygen and cover any fuel, good for the horses’ stables.

    Did you know that you can fire proof paper? It’s a simple recipe. Take one cup of Ammonium Sulfate (Mascagnite for you rock hounds out there), six tablespoons of Boric Acid (the same stuff you use to kill insects), 4 tablespoons of Borax (that’s your grandmothers laundry soap), and three cups of water. Mix the ingredients, and then either dip the paper into the mix, or brush it on. It needs several coats, so let each layer dry out first.

    If your thinking of doing the same to your raincoat or something else made out of synthetic fabrics all you need is Boric Acid. By the way, for you preppers down in Nevada, Boric Acid can be found in it’s natural state (colemanite), and might be something to stock up on for long distance bartering. For the rest of us, we’ll have to figure out a way of distilling it from fruit. As for fire proofing synthetic fabrics just mix one cup of Boric Acid (1 US cup = 236.588238 ml) into one gallon of water (1 gallon = 3.785 liters). Soak the fabric, and wring out, then hang up to dry. Redo after washing. If you know how many gallons is in your washing machine during the rinse cycle this might work as well.

    I’m a total classic camper, I use the old fashion Coleman lamps and stoves, and still have one of those old canvass tents, something I am likely not going to be packing for the farm. But I will likely keep my eye out for another one, or better yet, make one myself. The cotton canvass is a classic textile, it’s been used for almost a hundred years for those world famous 1950’s tents. Sleeping in a tent made of that thick fabric is better then staying at a holiday inn in my book. If you want to fire proof classic textiles like this you should get your hands on some Ammonium Phosphate (phosphoric acid with ammonia, do not try to make at home) and Ammonium Chloride (KEEP AWAY FROM ZINC!). Get a plastic bucket, not a zinc coated one, and put in 48 fluid ounces of water, and mix in half a cup of Ammonium Phosphate, and one cup of Ammonium Chloride. Soak your tent in the buck for at least ten minutes, then wring it out and hang up to dry. Retreat after it rains.

    Every year, houses burn down during the Christmas season. Part of the tradition of Christmas in our family is getting a real Christmas Tree, part of the hazard of that is the risk of a house fire from the tree. Non-LED lights get hot, to many lights on the same circuit can cause the electrical wires to over heat, and then there is the fireplace giving off sparks, and maybe you have to use a candle or two if the power goes out during an snow storm. You give yourself a little more safety by fire proofing your Christmas tree with some basic mixing in the water you use to keep it green. Get your hands on some Ammonium Sulfate, more of your grandmother’s laundry soap (Borax), and Boric Acid. Mix up a batch in four liters of water (about a jug of milk), two tablespoons of Borax, half cup of Boric Acid, and a full cup of Ammonium Sulfate. Mix, and then spray the tree down with the mix, and the rest to the water reservoir under the tree in the stand.

    If your looking for land like my family, there is always the option to build your own home. No home is 100% protected from all things that can happen, not even your dream fallout or bomb shelter, but a little extra added protection is always welcome. You can add some fire proofing qualities to the beams of your house yourself by mixing up a batch of chemicals you can get at any industrial supply. What you will need is Zinc Cloride (same stuff we used to make smoke bombs as kids), Ferric Cholride (check electronic supply stores, it’s used for etching circuit boards), Boric Acid (can be bought at some home improvement stores), Borax (check your local grocery store). Mix in these chemicals directly into 2 quarts of water, about half a cup of Zinc Cholride, a quarter cup of Ferris Chloride, 3 tablespoons of Boric Acid, and 3 tablespoons of Ammonium Phosphate. Use the mix like you are painting the beams, do four coats for best results. Be careful with the Ferris Cholride, it’s slightly toxic so use rubber gloves.

    Lastly what would a post about DIY fire proofing be without home made fire extinguishing liquid? Your going to need Sodium Carbonate (try to get ‘washing soda’ rather then ‘baking soda’ if you can there exactly the same, but the washing soda is cheaper), Alum (Yes the same stuff your wife gets for cooking that you steal to trap bugs in), Borax, Potassium Carbonate (commanly known as Potash), Sodium Silicate (also known as waterglass, you can make this by baking soda ash and sand in a kiln if your a ceramic artist). It is important to start with the Sodium Silicate (waterglass), mix two cups of sodium carbonate into the waterglass, then add one cup of Alum, three quarter of a cup of Borax, and one quarter of potash. Mix it evenly, then three cups of the result into one gallon of water. Pour this into a hand sprayer, like the ones used for spraying crops with insecticides. It needs a coarse nozzle. WARNING: Potash is toxic (internally). Waterglass is an irritant, avoid skin contact.

    If you liked this post on DIY Fire Proofing, you’d love the book I used to discover all these and more.

    The Formula Manual by Norman H. Stark [ Third Edition ] Stark Research Company

  • #1241

    OldMt Woman
    Participant

    Whew! Good data. But I think I need a chemist in our MAG.
    OldMtWoman

  • #1252

    Daisy
    Keymaster

    You’re a rockstar, Dan. ROCK. STAR.

    Thanks for this!

  • #1270

    Selco
    Keymaster

    Great post!

  • #1289

    Anonymous

    Nice. You will be happy to know I am not a grandma and use Borax in my homemade laundry soap several times a week 🙂

  • #1362

    Whirlibird
    Participant

    Excellent

  • #1714

    Wolphene Howlett
    Participant

    Great info, Dan Wolfe! Thanks for sharing that!

  • #8529

    Littlesister
    Participant

    Love it Dan. Fire Proofing things is great idea. Thank you for sharing.

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